Hogwarts

Although Hogwarts is on state land, the access road is on an easement owned by the nearby ranch.  Please be respectful while climbing here.

View from Hogwarts.

Muggles beware!  A force has been building near Rifle.  A new crag with great rock, rope stretching lines, and short approaches.  A place where the magic of a drill and some hard work has transformed an ordinary piece of rock into a great new climbing area.

Small tufas at the start of Horny for Hermione- 13b.

Well, Leah and I had been hearing about this place since last Summer and we finally decided to check it out.  It was hard to escape the magical spell of Rifle on Sunday morning, but the promise of a new wall was enough to ignore the slightly guilty feeling I had as we left the canyon.

Hogwarts lives down East Elk Creek Road, a road I have rushed by a million times on my way to Rifle.  A short drive up this beautiful valley reveals vibrant red cliffs, a wild river, and a hidden canyon with huge limestone walls that stretch beyond sight.  Luckily, Hogwarts and the Distillery flank the parking area at the mouth of the gorge.

The Distillery

A ten minute approach brings you across a river, and up a calm hillside to the left end of Hogwarts.  The rock has a similar hue to Rifle, but the features are less 3-dimensional.  Most of the routes are 25+ meters and follow features such as flakes, cracks, and pods up slightly overhanging terrain until the wall slabs out and features change to whipped spines and scalloped pinches.  For those who hate the buttery texture found at Rifle, Hogwarts offers a chance to play on new routes before they get greased up.

The Daily Prophet- 12a.

There are a few good 10's and 11's to warmup but most of the routes are between 12a and 13a.  Although we didn't see the entire cliff, it seemed to be extensivly developed.  Expect some loose rock on these routes since they have probably only been climbed a few times each.  I might be a good idea to bring a helmet.

Leah anticipating some choss.

Another nice thing about this cliff was the fresh feel of the crag.  There is still grass and flowers at the base.  We saw snakes, butterflies, and lizards all day.  You can hear the river rushing below.  Everything is calm and quiet which is a nice change from the rush and buzz of Rifle.

Top of the Distillery.

We ended the day by trying Imperio Direct- 13a.  It follows edges, flakes and a bonus tufa up a pretty white face to a thin crux and then moves up the slab using grooves, pods and pockets.

Imperio Direct- 13a.

Imperio Direct climbs just left of the large scoop, and ends just below the bushes to the top.

So, if you are tired of trying to find parking in Rifle, or looking for a quiet wall with great routes and nice scenery, check out Hogwarts.  Thanks to Dave Pegg, Josh Gross, and everyone else who helped develop this crag.

Texture.

Red River 2013

Early April found us back in Kentucky for our annual Red River Gorge climbing trip.  It always feels like a gamble when you buy tickets to the Red in the Spring.  It could easily rain for a week straight.  Luckily, we had perfect weather.

This trip was powered by MetRX.

We stayed at Lago Linda's last year, but our cabin was infested with ants, spiders, wood cackroaches, and mice.  So we decided to stay in the Treehouse at the Quiet Waters at Natural Bridge.  The cabin was great, but, we quickly realized why the cabin was such a great price.  The "short approach" they mentioned ended up being a 5 minute, straight uphill slog that we dreaded- especially after a long day of climbing.

However, we didn't know that when we first arrived.  At the parking lot, single wooden sign pointed us straight uphill, into a dark forest for an undetermined distance.  So, we marched into the darkness with 10 bags of groceries and our rolling luggage(which doesn't roll that great on uneven, rooty terrain), until our arms burned and our minds started questioning the existence of the Treehouse.  Eventually, I started laughing hysterically, dropped all my stuff, and went ahead until found the cabin.

In short, we both agree that we prefer pests over a heinous uphill trek.  So, if we rent a place again, we will probably end up a Lago Linda's.  Live and learn...

Leah doing what she does best- getting cozy.

Since we had visited the Red last April, we knew what to expect and trained specifically for the trip.  Leah was no longer literally expecting "jugs" and I expected to top out at 13b if I was lucky.  Unlike most trips, I didn't make an extensive tick list.  Instead, I just let the days unfold, which worked out sometimes, and backfired others.  Somehow, I ended up on two routes with full-on dynos(Bundle of Joy, and Appalacian Spring).

My abs were looking really good on this trip.

It's funny how climbing preferences change.  I visited the Red for the first time in 2004 and thought it was fun, but kind of monotonous and mindless.  I scoffed at climbers who obsessed about sequences around the fire at Miguel's.  I rolled my eyes as they refined their, left, right, left, until you reached the chains beta.  At the time I was enamored with the 3D style at Rifle and decided one visit was enough.

Leah on Amerillo Sunset- 11b/d.

Now, almost 10 years later, my love affair with Rifle has matured into a relationship that leaves room for other climbing areas.  I have a new appreciation the Red's straightforward style, and feel inspired by fresh crags with colorful, sweeping walls that are tucked in a beautiful, quiet forest.  Although I really struggle with the nature of the routes, it's exciting to find an area/style that exposes such a weakness.  Ultimately, if I can improve at the Red, it will transfer to other areas of my climbing.

Wonder what would happen if I removed the plug...

One of the biggest regrets from last year's trip was not visiting the Mammoth Caves- the world's largest cave!  So this year, we got up early, and forced ourselves to do the 3 hour drive.  It was pouring all day, so going underground seemed like the perfect activity for a rainy rest day.

Onyx crystals on ceiling.

We ended up on a great tour of the New Entrance, with only about 20 people(instead of 150).  We descended a steep stairwell down a narrow, vertical shaft that led to the floor of the cave.  Most of the people were old, so it took about 10 minutes.  I kept trying to imagine how long it would take with 150 old people.  The two hour tour would be eaten up just getting down the stairs!

Cave cricket on the ceiling.

The going was slow since some of the older people struggled with the uphills and muddy terrain, but nobody cared because there was plenty to look at and wonder about.  We learned that the original owner had a wine cellar down there during prohibition(we didn't get to see it).  I can only imaging the cave parties that were thrown.  He also tried to mimic all the major attractions of the Historic Cave Entrance, like the Fatman's Misery, and the boat ride.

Onyx.  People originally thought the ceiling was covered with diamonds.

Fairy Castle on the ceiling.

Frozen Niagra.  This pic might be upside-down.

Although our tour was only 2 hours long, we walked away with a good understanding of the history, legend, and tragedy of the cave.  I would definitely recommend doing this tour if you are in the area.  Next time, we are doing the Wild cave tour, which is 6 hours long and doesn't allow people with chest's larger than 42inches to go(mine is 42 inches).  I might get stuck in one of the squeezes!  I guess am going to have to diet even harder for caving than climbing!  Maybe caving will help my climbing?

Frozen Niagra.

On our way home, Leah suggested that we get BBQ, so we stopped at the nearest BBQ place we could find.  We ended up at Big Bubba Bucks Belly Busting BBQ Bliss.  Love that name!  We tried fried pickles and wanted to order the fried moon pie, but to our great disappointment, they were out.  While we ate, the owner was on a CB radio luring truckers off the highway to try their BBQ and naner naner naner naner puddin'.

Octodog!  I almost ordered it.

Kentucky was good to us.  We climbed 6 out of 8 days, and our skin and muscles were destroyed.  Leah took MVP of the trip- sending Triple Sec 12d and doing a 5.12 on each climbing day(some onsight!).  I continued to struggle with the style but managed to do a few 13a's and did more onsighting than usual.    Needless to say, neither of us wanted to go home. Oh well, I guess we will have to go back.

Winter Climbing Areas

Most people give up on rock climbing outside during the Winter in Boulder.  They imagine four feet of snow, icy crags, and numb fingers.

However, nothing could be further from the truth.  You may not be able to visit your favorite Summer crags, but there are plenty of great Winter destinations on the Front Range.  Some are better than others, but if you are craving a day out on rock these places might hit the spot.

BOULDER CANYON

Midnight Rock- Located in Upper Dream Canyon, this little area offer about 25 routes from  5.9-5.13a with a good mix of sport and trad.  The sun hits this wall from about 9am to 3pm.  Bring some good boots, there is usually a good amount of snow on  the 15 minute approach.

Berlin Wall-  A very nice, small, wind protected sport crag that gets hit by the sun all day.  Routes from 5.11b-5.13c. Can approach from Boulder Falls(30 minutes with some 4th class) or the Upper Dream Canyon parking lot(15 minutes, rap in, climb out). 

Plotinus Wall-  A convenient little crag with routes from 5.9-5.13b and even a few boulder problems at the base.  Sun until 3pm.  The approach is technically closed but when it's open expect a 20 minute hike.

Upper and Lower Security Risk-  These south facing cliffs sit high on north rim of the canyon.  Tends to be windy.  5.9-5.12d.  All day sun.  25 minute uphill hike.

ELDORADO CANYON

East Draw-  Small collections of boulder problems on some boulders and small cliff bands.  VB-V10.  15 minute uphill hike.  All day sun.

Rincon Wall-  Premier traditional crag with routes from 5.11a-5.13c.  All day sun.  25 minute uphill hike.


GOLDEN

The Quarry Wall-  My favorite Winter area.  With all day sun, this wind protected area seems to collect warmth.  If it's 30F and sunny it will feel like 50F.  Although the rock isn't perfect, the style is very unique.  The most attractive part of this area are it's "splitter cracks".  However, it also has some very challenging face climbs.  Routes range from 5.8-5.13c.  Easy 20 minute hike.

The East Quarry-  Just 5 minutes East of the Quarry Wall, this little area has a very similar climate.  The climbs are a bit shorter, but still has a nice mix of trad and sport climbs.  You can easily walk between the two Quarry areas.  5.8 to 5.13a.  All day sun.  Same approach as the Quarry Wall.

Highlander Crag-  In Clear Creek above the New River Wall this area sits high in the canyon and receives lots of sun.  Typical Clear Creed style and mostly bolted with routes from 5.9-5.13a.

MORRISON

The Black Hole-  Steep eliminate bouldering area.  Great for really cold, sunny days.  VB-VInfinite.  5 minute hike.

FORT COLLINS

Carter Lake-  Nice sandstone bouldering near a reservoir.  Tends to be windy.  Gets very muddy after a snow storm.  VB- V11.  5-15 minute hike.  $8 day fee.

Horsetooth Reservoir-  Classic sandstone bouldering area near another reservoir.  VB-V12. 5-15 minute hike.  Day fee. 

DENVER

Castlewood Canyon-  A nice option for days when it has snowed near the mountains but not the plains.  This area offers bouldering and sport climbing on a unique conglomerate sandstone.  Routes from 5.6-5.13c, and boulder problems from VB-V12.  All day sun.  5-20 minute hike.  $8 day fee.

CANON CITY

Shelf Road-  Vertical limestone sport climbing in a very beautiful setting.  Shelf tends to have better weather than almost anywhere else during the Winter.  So if it's bad where you are at, check out Shelf.  5.6-5.13d.

So that's my list of Winter crags.  I am sure there are others so if I missed one, please leave a comment.

Goals for 2013

Last January, as an experiment, I posted my climbing goals for 2012.  I wanted to see if making my goals public would provide some extra motivation and help me stay focused.  Well, 2012 has come and gone, the dust has settled, and I have to say it may have been my most productive year of climbing ever!

I definitely didn't achieve every goal on the list, but I traveled a ton, sent more stuff, and most importantly, maintained an extremely high level of psyche for training, and climbing all year.  I know it's not solely because of the list, but I certainly found myself referencing if throughout the year as a helpful reminder of what I wanted from my climbing in 2012.

Beyond helping one accomplish things, a goal list can also be a helpful tool for analyzing weaknesses and patterns in your climbing.  As I stare at my 2012 list, a couple of things pop out.  First, I didn't achieve any of my outside sport climbing, trad climbing, or bouldering goals.  After being honest with myself, I have to admit that I never really tried because I didn't project much last year.  I spent the year happily sampling crags, and ticking things I could do in a couple of tries.  Not a waste of time, but this approach definitely didn't help me reach my goals.  So in 2013, I plan on being more disciplined and projecting more.

The second thing I noticed was that I accomplished almost every gym goal I set- including the long term ones.  This isn't surprising, considering I go to the gym three days a week and consistently put time into projects and training.  It's not that the gym is my strength, it's just the only part of my list that I methodically hacked away at.

Obviously,  my #1 goal for 2013 is to have fun, but climbing is more fun when you are improving.  So here is my attack plan for 2013. 

Sport Climbing
Short Term
Second Go 13c
Onsight 13a


Medium Term
Redpoint The 7PM TV Show 14a- my 5 year nemesis.
Climb three 13d's this year- Mordred- 14a

Long Term
Onsight 13b
Climb 14b

Bouldering
Short Term
Do a V10- The Infinite 1/26/13
Onsight V8

Medium Term
Do a V11
Onsight V9

Long Term
Do a V12
Be able to do V10 in a day.

Traditional Climbing
The Wasp 13a

Gym
Overall gym plan is to primarily boulder, but also rope climb once a week.

Short Term
Onsight 13a 2/21/13
Climb two 13a's back to back
Boulder V10
Hangboard with 57.5pounds
2-4-6-8-10 on A with 10
Front lever for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups

Medium Term
Climb 13a and 13b back to back
Climb 13c
Boulder V11
Hangboard with 60 pounds
2-4-6-8-10 on A with 12.5 pounds
Front lever with 2lbs for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups with 10lbs

Long Term
Boulder V12
Hangboard with 65lbs
Front lever with 5lbs for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups with 20lbs
Win the world cup!

Travel
Try to make a destination trip at least once every 3 months.  And visit 5 new areas.

Newlin Creek
Red River Gorge
Hueco


Logan Canyon

For fun, I will try to return to this list and highlight the goals I accomplish as the year progresses.

Bugaboos- Fingerberry Jam

The Beckey-Chouinard had worn us out, but the weather was good so we had to climb.  So we decided to take a Bugaboos "rest day" and do a "short" route with a "small" approach.  The obvious choice was Fingerberry Jam, a seven pitch 12a.  Makes sense...

Fingerberry Jam ascends the clean, white panel of rock on the right side of the Fingerberry Tower.

As we approached the route, we nervously stared up at the first pitch- a very thin 5.11a finger crack.  Although it was more like 11c, it took great gear and climbed brilliantly ending just below a small roof.

A great view of the Beckey-Chouinard.

The second pitch pulls the roof and continues up a perfect finger crack.  About 30 feet up the crack V's.  Head left into a corner and over a roof to the next belay station.  Unfortunately, I headed right, which led me into a hideous flared crack that pinched down to a slopey offset feature.  I had to aid past about 10 feet to reach easier terrain and then tension traverse to the left to reach the already mentioned belay.  If anyone is interested, the pitch I aided would probably be around 13a.

The third pitch is the crux.  An easy hands section leads to opposing 5.11 thin seams which require stemming skills to pass.   More 5.10 Fingers and hands bring you to a hard left traverse into another 5.10 corner that eventually turns into a hollow flake traverse out right to a nice belay ledge.  Poor route finding skills lead me past the hard traverse and straight into a dead end at the top of the original crack.  Damn!

Looking up at the 12a pitch.

Taylor High on P3.

Taylor on P3.  So proud of Ben for taking some pictures!

The fourth pitch is an amazing 5.10 obtuse corner system.  I might say that this was the best pitch on the route.  Certainly the least stressful.

Ben starting up P4.

Ben higher up on P4

From here things kind of deteriorate.  Unbeknownst to us, most people rappel off after P4, doing the best pitches, and forgetting about the summit and the hassles of getting off the formation.  In other words, a nice short day of climbing.

The view from the top of P4.

However, we didn't know this so we pushed on towards the summit and into a part of the route that few people climb. All the sudden, the good rock and easy route finding turns into tiptoeing on choss and wondering where to go.

Pitch 4 is a 30 foot 5.8 corner crack that ends in a notch. Pitch 5 climbs into a 5.9 corner filled with hollow flakes and lichen that pops you out on a ledge.  Pitch 6 is low angle face with more hollow flakes and huge blocks that heads up and left and then right towards the summit. 

Ben on P6.

Cool formation.

Once you are on top, keep heading North to a rappel station that gets you off the Fingerberry Tower, but not on the glacier. 

The Fingerberry Tower rappel.

Ben on the rap onto the snow.

So instead of a short day of climbing, Fingerberry Jam turned into a full day of hard climbing, difficult route finding, and a stressful decent.  Typical Bugaboos stuff.

Bugaboos- Beckey-Chouinard

After a rainy and miserable three hour slog to East Creek Basin, we set up camp below The Beckey Chouinard.  This was the ultimate objective for our trip, and the line didn't disappoint.

The BC follows the skyline.

Since an electrical storm rolled in when we arrived, we watched some climbers retreating just below the white headwall.  A reminder of the unpredictable weather in the Bugaboos.

After the weather cleared up we spent the evening greeting the other climbers and learned that we had a celebrity in our midst.  More on that later...

No shit!

We woke up at 5:30am and were approaching the route by 7:00am.  We soloed the first 1000 feet of easy slab and roped up at the first 5.8 corner.  From there we simul-climbed all the way to the first 5.10 pitch.  At this point, we ran into another party and the process dramatically slowed.

Me on the first 5.10 pitch.  Notice the guy above me.

Another picture of the first 5.10 pitch.  I am just below the crux.

Ben on the tails of another party.

First view of the headwall.

Looking up at the second 5.10 pitch.

After a few more pitches, we ran into two more parties that graciously let us pass.

A nice view of the lower half of the BC.  Also note the other parties on the ledge.

The route finding was simple, and every pitch threw something different at you.  Most of the climbing was wide, slightly flared, and thuggy, but the occasional finger crack and roof kept things interesting.  Gear placements are abundant, and I never felt runout or scared.  Belays are very obvious, and higher up you simply climb until the end of the rope and set up a station instead of worrying about the "right" belay spot.

A typical pitch at the top of the BC.

Me on the 5.10 traverse at the top of the route.

The ridge traverse was not trivial.  After the initial rappel, we had no idea exactly where it went so we just kept heading up and right.  Some of the spots had 5.6ish moves and I was very glad to be roped up.

Me on the summit of the BC.

The rappel was fully bolted and fairly easy to find.  We had a 60 meter rope and a 6mm tag line which worked great.  Without a tag line, you would probably need a 70 meter rope.

I think we got off route on the second to last rappel...

Final rappel over a schrund to reach the glacier.

One the way back to camp I kept imagining how much different the route was in 1961 when it was put up.  No crowds, no topo, way more involved decent, less advanced equipment.  This route was a true adventure.

Which brings me back to the mystery climbing legend.  It was Fred Beckey!  It was his first trip back to East Creek in 51 years!  He is 89 years old and still climbing.

Me with Fred.

Fred walking to the helicopter pick up site.  I was really nervous watching him walk across the snow.

Anyways, I had to get my picture with him.  Thanks Fred!  You are truly inspiring! 

Alpenglow.