Goals for 2013

Last January, as an experiment, I posted my climbing goals for 2012.  I wanted to see if making my goals public would provide some extra motivation and help me stay focused.  Well, 2012 has come and gone, the dust has settled, and I have to say it may have been my most productive year of climbing ever!

I definitely didn't achieve every goal on the list, but I traveled a ton, sent more stuff, and most importantly, maintained an extremely high level of psyche for training, and climbing all year.  I know it's not solely because of the list, but I certainly found myself referencing if throughout the year as a helpful reminder of what I wanted from my climbing in 2012.

Beyond helping one accomplish things, a goal list can also be a helpful tool for analyzing weaknesses and patterns in your climbing.  As I stare at my 2012 list, a couple of things pop out.  First, I didn't achieve any of my outside sport climbing, trad climbing, or bouldering goals.  After being honest with myself, I have to admit that I never really tried because I didn't project much last year.  I spent the year happily sampling crags, and ticking things I could do in a couple of tries.  Not a waste of time, but this approach definitely didn't help me reach my goals.  So in 2013, I plan on being more disciplined and projecting more.

The second thing I noticed was that I accomplished almost every gym goal I set- including the long term ones.  This isn't surprising, considering I go to the gym three days a week and consistently put time into projects and training.  It's not that the gym is my strength, it's just the only part of my list that I methodically hacked away at.

Obviously,  my #1 goal for 2013 is to have fun, but climbing is more fun when you are improving.  So here is my attack plan for 2013. 

Sport Climbing
Short Term
Second Go 13c
Onsight 13a


Medium Term
Redpoint The 7PM TV Show 14a- my 5 year nemesis.
Climb three 13d's this year- Mordred- 14a

Long Term
Onsight 13b
Climb 14b

Bouldering
Short Term
Do a V10- The Infinite 1/26/13
Onsight V8

Medium Term
Do a V11
Onsight V9

Long Term
Do a V12
Be able to do V10 in a day.

Traditional Climbing
The Wasp 13a

Gym
Overall gym plan is to primarily boulder, but also rope climb once a week.

Short Term
Onsight 13a 2/21/13
Climb two 13a's back to back
Boulder V10
Hangboard with 57.5pounds
2-4-6-8-10 on A with 10
Front lever for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups

Medium Term
Climb 13a and 13b back to back
Climb 13c
Boulder V11
Hangboard with 60 pounds
2-4-6-8-10 on A with 12.5 pounds
Front lever with 2lbs for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups with 10lbs

Long Term
Boulder V12
Hangboard with 65lbs
Front lever with 5lbs for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups with 20lbs
Win the world cup!

Travel
Try to make a destination trip at least once every 3 months.  And visit 5 new areas.

Newlin Creek
Red River Gorge
Hueco


Logan Canyon

For fun, I will try to return to this list and highlight the goals I accomplish as the year progresses.

Goals for 2012

Well, it's a bit pat the holiday season but the present is always a good time to reflect on past accomplishments and dream of future goals.  Usually, I privately make some goals and then quickly fall into an unfocused and comfortable routine.  This year, I thought that if I shared my philosophy on setting goals and posted them on the internet, I would be more likely to stay on track.

Rule # 1- Brainstorm

Decide what you want out of climbing. If you are an all around climber, you will probably have separate goals for sport, traditional, multi-pitch, bouldering, and maybe even the gym. If you are specialized, such as a boulderer, your list may be shorter.

Rule #2- Time Frame

Make short, medium, and long term goals. These goals can range from a day to 10 years or more.

Rule #3- Be Specific, and Realistic

Goals should be measurable and attainable. Such as "I want to climb 12a". If you simply say I want to climb harder, how will you know when you have reached your goal?

Rule #4- Write Your Goals Down and Keep Them Visible

Writing down your goals makes them more concrete and physical.  Put the list somewhere you will see it daily- at work, in the car, by your bed, etc.  This will help you stay mindful of your goals.

 Rule #5- Review, Revise and Be Patient.

Evaluate your goals periodically.  If you achieve a goal too soon, make it a bit harder.  Also don't be afraid to change or eliminate goals that aren't productive, realistic, etc.  Remember to be patient- especially with long term goals.

Rule #6- Have a plan.

Hopefully, each goal builds upon the next to help you reach those long term goals.  However, this approach requires a plan.  For example, if you want to achieve a personal best in bouldering and routes, it makes more sense to focus on the bouldering goal first, and then apply your new power to routes- instead of the other way around.

So, after a short brainstorming session, here are my 2012 goals. Of course, my #1 goal is to have fun. Feel free to give me a hard time if I appear to be slacking off.

Sport Climbing

Short Term

Second Go 13c

Onsight 13a

Medium Term

Redpoint Planet X 14a
Climb three 13d's this year
1. Magnetar 13d (6/3/12)

Long Term
Onsight 13b

Climb 14b

Traditional Climbing

Short Term

Do two 13a traditional routes this year
The Red Dihedral 12d- I am taking 13a 

Medium Term
Climb The Five Year Plan 13c.

Long Term

My climbing manager(Ben Collett) and I need to discuss this...

Bouldering

Short Term

Do a V10
Be able to do V8 in a day. 

Medium Term

Do a V11
Be able to do V9 in a day.(12/23/12)

Long Term

Be able to do V10 in a day.
Do a V12

 

Gym

Short Term

Onsight 12d (1/3/12)

Climb 13b in a day 10/10/12 felt desperate!

Boulder V9 (2/9/12)

Hangboard with 45 pounds 5/15/12

2-4-6-8-10 on A (2/1/12)

20 pullups 5/15/12

Medium Term

Onsight 13a

Climb 13c

Boulder V10 11/11/12- a fight but basically in a day!

Hangboard with 50 pounds10/10/12 out of no where!

2-4-6-8-10 on A with 2.5 pounds- (030212) had to quit campusing because of minor finger injury.  Repeated 5/15/12

20 pullups with 10lbs (5/29/12)
 

Long Term 

Hangboard with 55lbs(10/17/12) easily!
2-4-6-8-10 on A with 5 pounds (11/7/12) with 5lbs then did next set with 7.5lbs- bested my best.  Been trying on and off for over a year.  Totally out of nowhere!!!
20 pullups with 20lbs
Win the world cup!

Travel

Go to at lease 5 new areas such as...
The Frying Pan(5/28/12) 
The Narrows(5/6/12)

Independence Pass (6/24/12)

Newlin Creek
Mill Creek
Ceuse
The Bugaboos (8/5/12)
Red River Gorge(4/9/12)

Community Service

Replace the hardware on Paris Girl.

Establish a new sport route in Rifle.

For fun, I will try to return to this list and highlight the goals I accomplish as the year progresses.