Blast from the Past- Wingless Victory Spring 2008

Here are some pictures of me on Wingless Victory 13b, in Eldorado Canyon. This bolted arete is just right of the 4th pitch(Bombay chimney) of The Naked Edge. Super exposed(the ancient ring bolt don't ease the mind), highly technical, and powerful, this pitch is amazing. The photos and toprope are courtesy of Justin Sjong. This is high on my list of local routes to do. Unfortunately, it's hard to find partners.
Trying to get to the first rest.

Almost there...Resting about half way up the pitch.
Getting ready for the crux- a nasty pinch move on the arete.

After climbing this pitch, we decided that it would be fun to try the alternate 12a bolted finish to the Naked Edge. The pitch completely kicked my ass! I hung all over it, and didn't even do some of the moves. It just wouldn't be an Eldo experience without being humbled.

Blast From the Past- Eldorado Canyon, Spring 2008

Here are some pictures of the Schultz Arete(A.K.A. Quigong) V11. This is a very convenient problem with very sharp crimps, a fairly bad landing and an annoying rock that you have to avoid touching at the start of the problem. Despite all the cons, this thing seriously exploits my crimp weakness, and for that it's definitely on my list as the temps cool down.

Unfinished Eldo Projects

This boulder is located below the Lower Peanut Wall in Eldorado Canyon. It features a large roof with one very hard project that moves along a slopey rail in the roof, joins a flake, and then ends with a heinous mantle. The chalk was added by Paul Robinson after I tipped him off about this problem. Despite his efforts this thing remains unclimbed, and looks like it would be at least V13. Here are a couple of pictures of the unfinished line.

If you continue up the talus field you reach the Upper Peanuts Wall, where you will encounter this boulder.

Colorado needs a V16 and this is it! The line starts with your left hand underclinging the roof and your right hand on a decent edge at head height on the face. Traverse left along the edge of the roof using small crimps and underclings until you hit a slippery pod at which point you climb upwards making some impossible moves to gain better holds before topping out at 20 feet. It seems appropriate that Colorado's first V16 is found in Eldo. Here are a couple of more pictures.

Since area requires a strenuous 20 minute hike to reach, this boulder problem has never been cleaned. That said, anyone willing to step out of the box and investigate this problem won't be disappointed.