Hogwarts

Although Hogwarts is on state land, the access road is on an easement owned by the nearby ranch.  Please be respectful while climbing here.

View from Hogwarts.

Muggles beware!  A force has been building near Rifle.  A new crag with great rock, rope stretching lines, and short approaches.  A place where the magic of a drill and some hard work has transformed an ordinary piece of rock into a great new climbing area.

Small tufas at the start of Horny for Hermione- 13b.

Well, Leah and I had been hearing about this place since last Summer and we finally decided to check it out.  It was hard to escape the magical spell of Rifle on Sunday morning, but the promise of a new wall was enough to ignore the slightly guilty feeling I had as we left the canyon.

Hogwarts lives down East Elk Creek Road, a road I have rushed by a million times on my way to Rifle.  A short drive up this beautiful valley reveals vibrant red cliffs, a wild river, and a hidden canyon with huge limestone walls that stretch beyond sight.  Luckily, Hogwarts and the Distillery flank the parking area at the mouth of the gorge.

The Distillery

A ten minute approach brings you across a river, and up a calm hillside to the left end of Hogwarts.  The rock has a similar hue to Rifle, but the features are less 3-dimensional.  Most of the routes are 25+ meters and follow features such as flakes, cracks, and pods up slightly overhanging terrain until the wall slabs out and features change to whipped spines and scalloped pinches.  For those who hate the buttery texture found at Rifle, Hogwarts offers a chance to play on new routes before they get greased up.

The Daily Prophet- 12a.

There are a few good 10's and 11's to warmup but most of the routes are between 12a and 13a.  Although we didn't see the entire cliff, it seemed to be extensivly developed.  Expect some loose rock on these routes since they have probably only been climbed a few times each.  I might be a good idea to bring a helmet.

Leah anticipating some choss.

Another nice thing about this cliff was the fresh feel of the crag.  There is still grass and flowers at the base.  We saw snakes, butterflies, and lizards all day.  You can hear the river rushing below.  Everything is calm and quiet which is a nice change from the rush and buzz of Rifle.

Top of the Distillery.

We ended the day by trying Imperio Direct- 13a.  It follows edges, flakes and a bonus tufa up a pretty white face to a thin crux and then moves up the slab using grooves, pods and pockets.

Imperio Direct- 13a.

Imperio Direct climbs just left of the large scoop, and ends just below the bushes to the top.

So, if you are tired of trying to find parking in Rifle, or looking for a quiet wall with great routes and nice scenery, check out Hogwarts.  Thanks to Dave Pegg, Josh Gross, and everyone else who helped develop this crag.

Texture.

Winter Climbing Areas

Most people give up on rock climbing outside during the Winter in Boulder.  They imagine four feet of snow, icy crags, and numb fingers.

However, nothing could be further from the truth.  You may not be able to visit your favorite Summer crags, but there are plenty of great Winter destinations on the Front Range.  Some are better than others, but if you are craving a day out on rock these places might hit the spot.

BOULDER CANYON

Midnight Rock- Located in Upper Dream Canyon, this little area offer about 25 routes from  5.9-5.13a with a good mix of sport and trad.  The sun hits this wall from about 9am to 3pm.  Bring some good boots, there is usually a good amount of snow on  the 15 minute approach.

Berlin Wall-  A very nice, small, wind protected sport crag that gets hit by the sun all day.  Routes from 5.11b-5.13c. Can approach from Boulder Falls(30 minutes with some 4th class) or the Upper Dream Canyon parking lot(15 minutes, rap in, climb out). 

Plotinus Wall-  A convenient little crag with routes from 5.9-5.13b and even a few boulder problems at the base.  Sun until 3pm.  The approach is technically closed but when it's open expect a 20 minute hike.

Upper and Lower Security Risk-  These south facing cliffs sit high on north rim of the canyon.  Tends to be windy.  5.9-5.12d.  All day sun.  25 minute uphill hike.

ELDORADO CANYON

East Draw-  Small collections of boulder problems on some boulders and small cliff bands.  VB-V10.  15 minute uphill hike.  All day sun.

Rincon Wall-  Premier traditional crag with routes from 5.11a-5.13c.  All day sun.  25 minute uphill hike.


GOLDEN

The Quarry Wall-  My favorite Winter area.  With all day sun, this wind protected area seems to collect warmth.  If it's 30F and sunny it will feel like 50F.  Although the rock isn't perfect, the style is very unique.  The most attractive part of this area are it's "splitter cracks".  However, it also has some very challenging face climbs.  Routes range from 5.8-5.13c.  Easy 20 minute hike.

The East Quarry-  Just 5 minutes East of the Quarry Wall, this little area has a very similar climate.  The climbs are a bit shorter, but still has a nice mix of trad and sport climbs.  You can easily walk between the two Quarry areas.  5.8 to 5.13a.  All day sun.  Same approach as the Quarry Wall.

Highlander Crag-  In Clear Creek above the New River Wall this area sits high in the canyon and receives lots of sun.  Typical Clear Creed style and mostly bolted with routes from 5.9-5.13a.

MORRISON

The Black Hole-  Steep eliminate bouldering area.  Great for really cold, sunny days.  VB-VInfinite.  5 minute hike.

FORT COLLINS

Carter Lake-  Nice sandstone bouldering near a reservoir.  Tends to be windy.  Gets very muddy after a snow storm.  VB- V11.  5-15 minute hike.  $8 day fee.

Horsetooth Reservoir-  Classic sandstone bouldering area near another reservoir.  VB-V12. 5-15 minute hike.  Day fee. 

DENVER

Castlewood Canyon-  A nice option for days when it has snowed near the mountains but not the plains.  This area offers bouldering and sport climbing on a unique conglomerate sandstone.  Routes from 5.6-5.13c, and boulder problems from VB-V12.  All day sun.  5-20 minute hike.  $8 day fee.

CANON CITY

Shelf Road-  Vertical limestone sport climbing in a very beautiful setting.  Shelf tends to have better weather than almost anywhere else during the Winter.  So if it's bad where you are at, check out Shelf.  5.6-5.13d.

So that's my list of Winter crags.  I am sure there are others so if I missed one, please leave a comment.

Independence Pass

Summer is my least favorite time of year.  Besides being covered in a glaze of sweat all day, the heat makes rock climbing feel ten times harder.  My mind keeps whispering for me to give up and come back when it's cooler.  Luckily, Colorado has numerous high altitude climbing areas that are 30F° to 40F° cooler than the Front Range.  So instead of suffering in the 100F° weather around Boulder, or waiting until the Fall for good conditions, we drove 3.5 hours to Independence Pass and explored a totally new area.

I have been interested in this area for years but the pull of Rifle always kept me away.  However, my options at Rifle have dwindled to super hard, and my interest in mega projecting is extremely low, so I finally made it to Indy Pass.

The first day we went to the Grotto Day Use Area and checked out Gollum's Cave, and The Ice Cave.  Louder than 11 recently put out a video http://vimeo.com/43867547 that featured the bouldering in the Ice Cave.  Being a sucker for climbing porn, I got super psyched about the idea of bouldering in a unique, ice sculpted cave with an ice floor.

Layers of ice.

The Vampire.  You can lead this as a 13a traditional climb or boulder it at V7. 

Once we got there, reality set in.  Besides the fact that the floor had unevenly melted at least 3 feet since the video was shot and most of the problems are PG13 or R rated, it's a tourist attraction!  There's a constant stream of screaming kids, and people falling on the ice.  It's like being on the trail to Chaos Canyon, where everyone asks you annoying questions about your crash pad, only you never get away from them.  I hung out for about 20 minutes, and then decided to whole scene was way too stressful.

Later in the day, we headed to the Lower Grotto, and got thoroughly spanked on a super chalked up, benign looking 12c/d called Scene of the Crime.  Maybe it was the altitude or because I skipped my morning coffee, but this is the first 12+ I haven't been able to redpoint in a couple of tries in over 5 years.  Just goes to show that rock climbing will always humble you.

Kurt Smith on Scene of the Crime on the late 80's. 

Sunday was spent at Wild Rock- a building sized boulder with a steep and impressive 80 foot face.  Weary from Saturday's beatdown, I got on Problem Child 12b.  True to form, the climb proved to be difficult, and it took a couple of hangs to figure out the sequences.  Leah and I both did it second try, and then I moved over to my main objective for the trip- Wild Thing 12d.  This route tackles a steep, black corner and roof system to a powerful crux and some very funky moves in a strange corner. After haning all over it on my first go, I managed to grunt my way up it second go.  Like all the other routes we tried, it felt hard for the grade, but it's a brilliant climb.

Anyways, the weather was perfect, and the climbing was awesome.  So if you are looking for a good Summer location, check out Independence Pass! 

The view from the top of Independence Pass looking towards Aspen.

Blast from the Past- Wingless Victory Spring 2008

Here are some pictures of me on Wingless Victory 13b, in Eldorado Canyon. This bolted arete is just right of the 4th pitch(Bombay chimney) of The Naked Edge. Super exposed(the ancient ring bolt don't ease the mind), highly technical, and powerful, this pitch is amazing. The photos and toprope are courtesy of Justin Sjong. This is high on my list of local routes to do. Unfortunately, it's hard to find partners.
Trying to get to the first rest.

Almost there...Resting about half way up the pitch.
Getting ready for the crux- a nasty pinch move on the arete.

After climbing this pitch, we decided that it would be fun to try the alternate 12a bolted finish to the Naked Edge. The pitch completely kicked my ass! I hung all over it, and didn't even do some of the moves. It just wouldn't be an Eldo experience without being humbled.

Fun in the Flatirons

Yesterday, Tony Yao, Luke Kearns, and I skipped work and headed up to the East Ironing Board(EIB). Tony and I were interested in trying Slave to the Rhythm 13b, and Luke was eying a route called Farniente 12a. The EIB is a small, Southwest oriented formation that sits just behind the Third Flatiron. Considering the size of the crag, it host a very impressive collection of climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.14. Enough about the description, here are some pictures of me on Slave to the Rhythm.
Doing the first crux

Exiting the first crux.

Me loving the biggest cobble on the route. Apparently, this thing is nicknamed the Skinhead.

Here are some pictures of Luke Kearns, on Farniente. This is a really nice bolted slab. The climbing is more about faith and friction, than pulling.
Luke looking for the first bolt.

LK pulling through the crux


Although the Flatirons form the backdrop for Boulder, there are days that I don't even look at them. Places like the EIB remind me that this area is not to be taken for granted.

Blast From the Past-Minturn Bouldering Spring 2008

Unfortunately, I don't have anything cool to write about, so here are some bouldering pictures from Minturn.
The first set of pictures were taken at Redcliff. Surrounded by Aspens, this area features about 10 boulders with problems ranging from VB to V8. Despite an easy 5 minute approach, great stone, fun problems, and a beautiful setting, this area remains highly overlooked.

Lee warming up

Alex on a nice V6

Lee topping out the same V6. This mantle is HARD!

Me on another V6. The first move was definitely the hardest.

Lee on yet another V6.

The next series of pictures were taken at an area near Redcliff called the Aircraft Carrier. Tucked next to a small talus field, this spot consists of three large boulders with about 30 problems total. It's a small area, but it's much steeper than Redcliff, and has problems ranging from VB t0 V11. The problem below is called the Cool Arete V9. It lives up to its name!

Unfortunately, the problem is a bit contrived at the end. Either exit out left to the vertical rail, or continue up the arete.

Although neither area is spectacular, sometimes all you need is to get out of town, see a new area, and have a little adventure. If this is what you need, check these places out!