Showing posts with label Red River Gorge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Red River Gorge. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Red River 2013



Early April found us back in Kentucky for our annual Red River Gorge climbing trip.  It always feels like a gamble when you buy tickets to the Red in the Spring.  It could easily rain for a week straight.  Luckily, we had perfect weather.

This trip was powered by MetRX.
We stayed at Lago Linda's last year, but our cabin was infested with ants, spiders, wood cackroaches, and mice.  So we decided to stay in the Treehouse at the Quiet Waters at Natural Bridge.  The cabin was great, but, we quickly realized why the cabin was such a great price.  The "short approach" they mentioned ended up being a 5 minute, straight uphill slog that we dreaded- especially after a long day of climbing.

However, we didn't know that when we first arrived.  At the parking lot, single wooden sign pointed us straight uphill, into a dark forest for an undetermined distance.  So, we marched into the darkness with 10 bags of groceries and our rolling luggage(which doesn't roll that great on uneven, rooty terrain), until our arms burned and our minds started questioning the existence of the Treehouse.  Eventually, I started laughing hysterically, dropped all my stuff, and went ahead until found the cabin.

In short, we both agree that we prefer pests over a heinous uphill trek.  So, if we rent a place again, we will probably end up a Lago Linda's.  Live and learn...

Leah doing what she does best- getting cozy.
Since we had visited the Red last April, we knew what to expect and trained specifically for the trip.  Leah was no longer literally expecting "jugs" and I expected to top out at 13b if I was lucky.  Unlike most trips, I didn't make an extensive tick list.  Instead, I just let the days unfold, which worked out sometimes, and backfired others.  Somehow, I ended up on two routes with full-on dynos(Bundle of Joy, and Appalacian Spring).

My abs were looking really good on this trip.
It's funny how climbing preferences change.  I visited the Red for the first time in 2004 and thought it was fun, but kind of monotonous and mindless.  I scoffed at climbers who obsessed about sequences around the fire at Miguel's.  I rolled my eyes as they refined their, left, right, left, until you reached the chains beta.  At the time I was enamored with the 3D style at Rifle and decided one visit was enough.

Leah on Amerillo Sunset- 11b/d.
Now, almost 10 years later, my love affair with Rifle has matured into a relationship that leaves room for other climbing areas.  I have a new appreciation the Red's straightforward style, and feel inspired by fresh crags with colorful, sweeping walls that are tucked in a beautiful, quiet forest.  Although I really struggle with the nature of the routes, it's exciting to find an area/style that exposes such a weakness.  Ultimately, if I can improve at the Red, it will transfer to other areas of my climbing.

Wonder what would happen if I removed the plug...
One of the biggest regrets from last year's trip was not visiting the Mammoth Caves- the world's largest cave!  So this year, we got up early, and forced ourselves to do the 3 hour drive.  It was pouring all day, so going underground seemed like the perfect activity for a rainy rest day.

Onyx crystals on ceiling.
We ended up on a great tour of the New Entrance, with only about 20 people(instead of 150).  We descended a steep stairwell down a narrow, vertical shaft that led to the floor of the cave.  Most of the people were old, so it took about 10 minutes.  I kept trying to imagine how long it would take with 150 old people.  The two hour tour would be eaten up just getting down the stairs!

Cave cricket on the ceiling.
The going was slow since some of the older people struggled with the uphills and muddy terrain, but nobody cared because there was plenty to look at and wonder about.  We learned that the original owner had a wine cellar down there during prohibition(we didn't get to see it).  I can only imaging the cave parties that were thrown.  He also tried to mimic all the major attractions of the Historic Cave Entrance, like the Fatman's Misery, and the boat ride.

Onyx.  People originally thought the ceiling was covered with diamonds.
Fairy Castle on the ceiling.
Frozen Niagra.  This pic might be upside-down.
Although our tour was only 2 hours long, we walked away with a good understanding of the history, legend, and tragedy of the cave.  I would definitely recommend doing this tour if you are in the area.  Next time, we are doing the Wild cave tour, which is 6 hours long and doesn't allow people with chest's larger than 42inches to go(mine is 42 inches).  I might get stuck in one of the squeezes!  I guess am going to have to diet even harder for caving than climbing!  Maybe caving will help my climbing?

Frozen Niagra.
On our way home, Leah suggested that we get BBQ, so we stopped at the nearest BBQ place we could find.  We ended up at Big Bubba Bucks Belly Busting BBQ Bliss.  Love that name!  We tried fried pickles and wanted to order the fried moon pie, but to our great disappointment, they were out.  While we ate, the owner was on a CB radio luring truckers off the highway to try their BBQ and naner naner naner naner puddin'.

Octodog!  I almost ordered it.

Kentucky was good to us.  We climbed 6 out of 8 days, and our skin and muscles were destroyed.  Leah took MVP of the trip- sending Triple Sec 12d and doing a 5.12 on each climbing day(some onsight!).  I continued to struggle with the style but managed to do a few 13a's and did more onsighting than usual.    Needless to say, neither of us wanted to go home. Oh well, I guess we will have to go back.


Friday, April 20, 2012

Red River Gorge

Quilt pattern on the side of a barn.  A tourism ploy to attract peolpe to the area.
Every year I experiment with how I train.  Some years I boulder more, or do more hangboard workouts, etc.  This year I have been trying to travel more.  This gives me a specific style of climbing to train for, and provides me with an injection of motivation.

Candle light dinner.

Leah looking for eggs on Easter Sunday.
She found some!
Last week, Leah and I went to The Red River Gorge for a 10 day sport climbing vacation.  It was a great trip filled with lots of ups and downs, critters, driving, and old friends.  We climbed 6 out of 8 days and went home with extremely sore muscles and torn up skin.

Just another overgrown machine.
It had been 9 years since my last trip to the Red, and things have changed a lot since then.  To start, there are a lot more people.  We struggled to deal with the crowds and spent most of the trip trying to avoid the crowds.  Another nice change is the acquisition of the Pendergrass-Murray Recreationl Preserve, which houses some of the most impressive walls at the Red.  To the land owners, thank you for allowing us to visit your beautiful land and climb on your amazing cliffs.  If you visit these areas, please be sure to respect the land, be courteous to everyone, and donate to help keep the areas open.

Dharma enjoying some milk.
Kitties in the refrigerator!

Being from Colorado, we both really enjoyed the lush, hardwood forest, and endless rolling fields of Kentucky bluegrass.  However, this abundance of life didn't stop at the cabin door.  We spent the majority of our stay at Lago Linda's dealing with mice, ants, ticks, black widows and cockroaches.  So although our cabin was very cozy, we never really felt relax.

Joe Young Cabin.
We killed the mouse because he was chewing on our luggage to reach food, and felt extremely guilty about it the entire week.  This led to more ants and screeching starving baby mice in the walls, and we quickly realized that the cabin contained a very delicate ecosystem.  Ultimately, we gave up trying to keep the cabin pest free and just let them creep and crawl around- as long as they stayed out of our bed! 
   
A mouse chewed through this plastic egg to reach a chocolate bunny.
Sorry!
We found this guy on Leah's back.
The climbing is really fun!  I love the steep walls peppered with sculpted pockets and features.  The routes are really beautiful and inspiring to look at and climb on.  I had lofty goals for this trip, which were quickly lowered.  This also happened on my first trip to the Red.  For some reason, I really struggle with the style and movement at this area. Despite my issues with the climbing, I still managed to try almost every route on my list and came away with some great sends and some heart breaking failures.  I guess that's climbing...  Sorry there arent' very many climbing pictures.

Leah possuming on Check Your Grip- 12a.
Me below Dirty Smelly Hippie- 13b.
Besides climbing we thoroughly enjoyed seeing all the strange and beautiful things that the Red contains.  Like an outdoor living room, abandoned machinery, and the stunning flowers.

Outdoor living room complete with a broom beneath a cave.
Wall lined with bourbon bottles.
Small oil pumps are everywhere in the Red
An abandoned tank with a pig face on it.
Dwarf Iris.
When we arrive in Kentucky we went to the Buffalo Trace whiskey distillery, and did the Ghost Tour.  Basically, they take you around the grounds and tell you about how people have heard voices, had their pants pulled down, and caught strange shadows and figures in pictures.

Leah with a buffalo.

Some really old bourbon.
Inside the storage warehouse.  Angels' share abounds.
More barrels in the warehouse.
Our tour guide offering us a complimentary shot.
 On our first rest day, we hike up to the Natural Bridge Arch.

Leah below the arch.
Leah looking out at the arch.
Me in Devil's Gulch. 
We also went to Keeneland Race Track to see some horse races and the countryside.

Not Thoroughbreds but still nice.
So Southern.

The winner!
Lucky number 5!  Got to go with your gut.  Now let's go collect $14.60!
The only thing we wish we had done was visit the Mammoth Caves.  Oh well, I guess we will just have to go back...

Can you find Leah in this picture?

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