Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Hogwarts

Although Hogwarts is on state land, the access road is on an easement owned by the nearby ranch.  Please be respectful while climbing here.




View from Hogwarts.
Muggles beware!  A force has been building near Rifle.  A new crag with great rock, rope stretching lines, and short approaches.  A place where the magic of a drill and some hard work has transformed an ordinary piece of rock into a great new climbing area.

Small tufas at the start of Horny for Hermione- 13b.
Well, Leah and I had been hearing about this place since last Summer and we finally decided to check it out.  It was hard to escape the magical spell of Rifle on Sunday morning, but the promise of a new wall was enough to ignore the slightly guilty feeling I had as we left the canyon.


Hogwarts lives down East Elk Creek Road, a road I have rushed by a million times on my way to Rifle.  A short drive up this beautiful valley reveals vibrant red cliffs, a wild river, and a hidden canyon with huge limestone walls that stretch beyond sight.  Luckily, Hogwarts and the Distillery flank the parking area at the mouth of the gorge.

The Distillery
A ten minute approach brings you across a river, and up a calm hillside to the left end of Hogwarts.  The rock has a similar hue to Rifle, but the features are less 3-dimensional.  Most of the routes are 25+ meters and follow features such as flakes, cracks, and pods up slightly overhanging terrain until the wall slabs out and features change to whipped spines and scalloped pinches.  For those who hate the buttery texture found at Rifle, Hogwarts offers a chance to play on new routes before they get greased up.
The Daily Prophet- 12a.
There are a few good 10's and 11's to warmup but most of the routes are between 12a and 13a.  Although we didn't see the entire cliff, it seemed to be extensivly developed.  Expect some loose rock on these routes since they have probably only been climbed a few times each.  I might be a good idea to bring a helmet.

Leah anticipating some choss.
Another nice thing about this cliff was the fresh feel of the crag.  There is still grass and flowers at the base.  We saw snakes, butterflies, and lizards all day.  You can hear the river rushing below.  Everything is calm and quiet which is a nice change from the rush and buzz of Rifle.



Top of the Distillery.
We ended the day by trying Imperio Direct- 13a.  It follows edges, flakes and a bonus tufa up a pretty white face to a thin crux and then moves up the slab using grooves, pods and pockets.

Imperio Direct- 13a.
Imperio Direct climbs just left of the large scoop, and ends just below the bushes to the top.
So, if you are tired of trying to find parking in Rifle, or looking for a quiet wall with great routes and nice scenery, check out Hogwarts.  Thanks to Dave Pegg, Josh Gross, and everyone else who helped develop this crag.

Texture.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Red River 2013



Early April found us back in Kentucky for our annual Red River Gorge climbing trip.  It always feels like a gamble when you buy tickets to the Red in the Spring.  It could easily rain for a week straight.  Luckily, we had perfect weather.

This trip was powered by MetRX.
We stayed at Lago Linda's last year, but our cabin was infested with ants, spiders, wood cackroaches, and mice.  So we decided to stay in the Treehouse at the Quiet Waters at Natural Bridge.  The cabin was great, but, we quickly realized why the cabin was such a great price.  The "short approach" they mentioned ended up being a 5 minute, straight uphill slog that we dreaded- especially after a long day of climbing.

However, we didn't know that when we first arrived.  At the parking lot, single wooden sign pointed us straight uphill, into a dark forest for an undetermined distance.  So, we marched into the darkness with 10 bags of groceries and our rolling luggage(which doesn't roll that great on uneven, rooty terrain), until our arms burned and our minds started questioning the existence of the Treehouse.  Eventually, I started laughing hysterically, dropped all my stuff, and went ahead until found the cabin.

In short, we both agree that we prefer pests over a heinous uphill trek.  So, if we rent a place again, we will probably end up a Lago Linda's.  Live and learn...

Leah doing what she does best- getting cozy.
Since we had visited the Red last April, we knew what to expect and trained specifically for the trip.  Leah was no longer literally expecting "jugs" and I expected to top out at 13b if I was lucky.  Unlike most trips, I didn't make an extensive tick list.  Instead, I just let the days unfold, which worked out sometimes, and backfired others.  Somehow, I ended up on two routes with full-on dynos(Bundle of Joy, and Appalacian Spring).

My abs were looking really good on this trip.
It's funny how climbing preferences change.  I visited the Red for the first time in 2004 and thought it was fun, but kind of monotonous and mindless.  I scoffed at climbers who obsessed about sequences around the fire at Miguel's.  I rolled my eyes as they refined their, left, right, left, until you reached the chains beta.  At the time I was enamored with the 3D style at Rifle and decided one visit was enough.

Leah on Amerillo Sunset- 11b/d.
Now, almost 10 years later, my love affair with Rifle has matured into a relationship that leaves room for other climbing areas.  I have a new appreciation the Red's straightforward style, and feel inspired by fresh crags with colorful, sweeping walls that are tucked in a beautiful, quiet forest.  Although I really struggle with the nature of the routes, it's exciting to find an area/style that exposes such a weakness.  Ultimately, if I can improve at the Red, it will transfer to other areas of my climbing.

Wonder what would happen if I removed the plug...
One of the biggest regrets from last year's trip was not visiting the Mammoth Caves- the world's largest cave!  So this year, we got up early, and forced ourselves to do the 3 hour drive.  It was pouring all day, so going underground seemed like the perfect activity for a rainy rest day.

Onyx crystals on ceiling.
We ended up on a great tour of the New Entrance, with only about 20 people(instead of 150).  We descended a steep stairwell down a narrow, vertical shaft that led to the floor of the cave.  Most of the people were old, so it took about 10 minutes.  I kept trying to imagine how long it would take with 150 old people.  The two hour tour would be eaten up just getting down the stairs!

Cave cricket on the ceiling.
The going was slow since some of the older people struggled with the uphills and muddy terrain, but nobody cared because there was plenty to look at and wonder about.  We learned that the original owner had a wine cellar down there during prohibition(we didn't get to see it).  I can only imaging the cave parties that were thrown.  He also tried to mimic all the major attractions of the Historic Cave Entrance, like the Fatman's Misery, and the boat ride.

Onyx.  People originally thought the ceiling was covered with diamonds.
Fairy Castle on the ceiling.
Frozen Niagra.  This pic might be upside-down.
Although our tour was only 2 hours long, we walked away with a good understanding of the history, legend, and tragedy of the cave.  I would definitely recommend doing this tour if you are in the area.  Next time, we are doing the Wild cave tour, which is 6 hours long and doesn't allow people with chest's larger than 42inches to go(mine is 42 inches).  I might get stuck in one of the squeezes!  I guess am going to have to diet even harder for caving than climbing!  Maybe caving will help my climbing?

Frozen Niagra.
On our way home, Leah suggested that we get BBQ, so we stopped at the nearest BBQ place we could find.  We ended up at Big Bubba Bucks Belly Busting BBQ Bliss.  Love that name!  We tried fried pickles and wanted to order the fried moon pie, but to our great disappointment, they were out.  While we ate, the owner was on a CB radio luring truckers off the highway to try their BBQ and naner naner naner naner puddin'.

Octodog!  I almost ordered it.

Kentucky was good to us.  We climbed 6 out of 8 days, and our skin and muscles were destroyed.  Leah took MVP of the trip- sending Triple Sec 12d and doing a 5.12 on each climbing day(some onsight!).  I continued to struggle with the style but managed to do a few 13a's and did more onsighting than usual.    Needless to say, neither of us wanted to go home. Oh well, I guess we will have to go back.


Monday, March 11, 2013

Winter Climbing Areas

Most people give up on rock climbing outside during the Winter in Boulder.  They imagine four feet of snow, icy crags, and numb fingers. 

However, nothing could be further from the truth.  You may not be able to visit your favorite Summer crags, but there are plenty of great Winter destinations on the Front Range.  Some are better than others, but if you are craving a day out on rock these places might hit the spot.

BOULDER CANYON

Midnight Rock- Located in Upper Dream Canyon, this little area offer about 25 routes from  5.9-5.13a with a good mix of sport and trad.  The sun hits this wall from about 9am to 3pm.  Bring some good boots, there is usually a good amount of snow on  the 15 minute approach.

Berlin Wall-  A very nice, small, wind protected sport crag that gets hit by the sun all day.  Routes from 5.11b-5.13c. Can approach from Boulder Falls(30 minutes with some 4th class) or the Upper Dream Canyon parking lot(15 minutes, rap in, climb out). 

Plotinus Wall-  A convenient little crag with routes from 5.9-5.13b and even a few boulder problems at the base.  Sun until 3pm.  The approach is technically closed but when it's open expect a 20 minute hike.

Upper and Lower Security Risk-  These south facing cliffs sit high on north rim of the canyon.  Tends to be windy.  5.9-5.12d.  All day sun.  25 minute uphill hike.

ELDORADO CANYON

East Draw-  Small collections of boulder problems on some boulders and small cliff bands.  VB-V10.  15 minute uphill hike.  All day sun.

Rincon Wall-  Premier traditional crag with routes from 5.11a-5.13c.  All day sun.  25 minute uphill hike.


GOLDEN

The Quarry Wall-  My favorite Winter area.  With all day sun, this wind protected area seems to collect warmth.  If it's 30F and sunny it will feel like 50F.  Although the rock isn't perfect, the style is very unique.  The most attractive part of this area are it's "splitter cracks".  However, it also has some very challenging face climbs.  Routes range from 5.8-5.13c.  Easy 20 minute hike.

The East Quarry-  Just 5 minutes East of the Quarry Wall, this little area has a very similar climate.  The climbs are a bit shorter, but still has a nice mix of trad and sport climbs.  You can easily walk between the two Quarry areas.  5.8 to 5.13a.  All day sun.  Same approach as the Quarry Wall.

Highlander Crag-  In Clear Creek above the New River Wall this area sits high in the canyon and receives lots of sun.  Typical Clear Creed style and mostly bolted with routes from 5.9-5.13a.

MORRISON

The Black Hole-  Steep eliminate bouldering area.  Great for really cold, sunny days.  VB-VInfinite.  5 minute hike.

FORT COLLINS

Carter Lake-  Nice sandstone bouldering near a reservoir.  Tends to be windy.  Gets very muddy after a snow storm.  VB- V11.  5-15 minute hike.  $8 day fee.

Horsetooth Reservoir-  Classic sandstone bouldering area near another reservoir.  VB-V12. 5-15 minute hike.  Day fee. 

DENVER

Castlewood Canyon-  A nice option for days when it has snowed near the mountains but not the plains.  This area offers bouldering and sport climbing on a unique conglomerate sandstone.  Routes from 5.6-5.13c, and boulder problems from VB-V12.  All day sun.  5-20 minute hike.  $8 day fee.

CANON CITY

Shelf Road-  Vertical limestone sport climbing in a very beautiful setting.  Shelf tends to have better weather than almost anywhere else during the Winter.  So if it's bad where you are at, check out Shelf.  5.6-5.13d. 

So that's my list of Winter crags.  I am sure there are others so if I missed one, please leave a comment.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Hueco Christmas and a Hueco New Year


I am a horrible, selfish person.  Instead of flying home to Seattle to see my family for Christmas, I chose to go climbing in Hueco.

Einar on Brittany in a Blender V9.
OK, I am not a horrible person, but something must be wrong with me.  I would rather drive 12 hours in my shitty car, than fly 3 hours on a shitty plane.  I would rather pay to live in a slightly ghetto RV, than sleep in a nice house for free.  I would rather hang out with filthy strangers and friends under a cold rock, than be cozy and warm with my family in the living room.

Jon Linhart on The Bathtub V9.
I felt guilty about skipping out on my folks, but it's hard to hear your conscious when you are in such a sacred, and beautiful place.  Hueco vibrates with history and culture.  It's easy to imagine ancient people living among the boulders that we recreate on.  A perfect oasis from a harsh desert.  A perfect oasis from modern life. 




Life quickly get stripped down to the basics.  Eat, sleep, climb, repeat.  

Our beloved camper.
Besides my first trip to Hueco in 1998(wow, that makes me sound old), before all the rules, this was by far my most unrestricted experience in recent years.  Mainly because I went with my friend and commercial guide, Rob Guinn.  Thanks Rob!!!

Rob.
Many adventures were had.  Lots of problems were done.  Skin was shredded.  Holds were fondled.  Limits were pushed.  Muscles got sore.  Unfinished business was left.

Ida.
Unfortunately, all good things come to an end.  So back to real life, the obscure tour, and choss mongering.  Until next time Hueco!




Goals for 2013


Last January, as an experiment, I posted my climbing goals for 2012.  I wanted to see if making my goals public would provide some extra motivation and help me stay focused.  Well, 2012 has come and gone, the dust has settled, and I have to say it may have been my most productive year of climbing ever!

I definitely didn't achieve every goal on the list, but I traveled a ton, sent more stuff, and most importantly, maintained an extremely high level of psyche for training, and climbing all year.  I know it's not solely because of the list, but I certainly found myself referencing if throughout the year as a helpful reminder of what I wanted from my climbing in 2012.

Beyond helping one accomplish things, a goal list can also be a helpful tool for analyzing weaknesses and patterns in your climbing.  As I stare at my 2012 list, a couple of things pop out.  First, I didn't achieve any of my outside sport climbing, trad climbing, or bouldering goals.  After being honest with myself, I have to admit that I never really tried because I didn't project much last year.  I spent the year happily sampling crags, and ticking things I could do in a couple of tries.  Not a waste of time, but this approach definitely didn't help me reach my goals.  So in 2013, I plan on being more disciplined and projecting more.

The second thing I noticed was that I accomplished almost every gym goal I set- including the long term ones.  This isn't surprising, considering I go to the gym three days a week and consistently put time into projects and training.  It's not that the gym is my strength, it's just the only part of my list that I methodically hacked away at.

Obviously,  my #1 goal for 2013 is to have fun, but climbing is more fun when you are improving.  So here is my attack plan for 2013. 

Sport Climbing
Short Term
Second Go 13c
Onsight 13a


Medium Term
Redpoint The 7PM TV Show 14a- my 5 year nemesis.
Climb three 13d's this year

Long Term
Onsight 13b
Climb 14b

Bouldering
Short Term
Do a V10- The Infinite 1/26/13
Onsight V8

Medium Term
Do a V11
Onsight V9

Long Term
Do a V12
Be able to do V10 in a day.

Traditional Climbing
The Wasp 13a

Gym
Overall gym plan is to primarily boulder, but also rope climb once a week.

Short Term
Onsight 13a 2/21/13
Climb two 13a's back to back
Do 10 V10's this year
V8, V7, V7, V6 4x4
Hangboard with 57.5pounds
2-4-6-8-10 on A with 10
Front lever for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups

Medium Term
Climb two 13b's back to back
Climb 13c
Boulder V11
V8, V8, V7, V6 4x4
Hangboard with 60 pounds
2-4-6-8-10 on A with 12.5 pounds
Front lever with 2lbs for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups with 10lbs

Long Term
Boulder V12
V9, V8, V7, V6 4x4
Hangboard with 65lbs
2-4-6-8-10 on A with 15 pounds
Front lever with 5lbs for 10 seconds- wide arms
20 pullups with 20lbs
Win the world cup!

Travel
Try to make a destination trip at least once every 3 months.  And visit 5 new areas.

Newlin Creek
Red River Gorge
Hueco
Mill Creek
The Hoop
Wolf Point
Joe's
Elkland
Squamish
Bow Valley

For fun, I will try to return to this list and highlight the goals I accomplish as the year progresses.

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Bugaboos- Lentils or TVP, Eh?

After a week of climbing in the Bugaboos, our rope was starting to look like a furry caterpillar.  Concerned that our rope could core shot at any moment, we decided to skip repeating another established route and focus on establishing a new route.

Cool pattern in the snow.
After hiking around East Creek Basin for a couple of days, we decided to establish a route on the Pigeon Feather Spire.  The short approach, and obvious line made it a logical choice.

Ben at the base.
 So up we went into the unknown.  The first pitch was a great 5.8 corner, with a tricky right trending lieback to an amazing belay ledge directly below P2.

Ben on P1.
Ben below the crux of P1.
 Pitch 2 was a great 5.10- with a perfect hand crack start and a thought provoking stemming crux right at the end.  This pitch also ends on a ledge.

Taylor ready for P2.
Taylor on P2 hand crack.
Taylor below the crux of P2.
The 3rd pitch was a scramble up and left to the edge of the huge corner system and below a steep, lichen covered wall.  At first it's unclear where to go, but after a moment we realized that we had to traverse right along a huge handrail for about 20 feet, and then follow a left trending crack up the center of the wall.

Taylor on the airy traverse of P4.
The position, and exposure were amazing, unfortunately, the entire pitch was covered with lichen.  I made the traverse and started up the crack without any issues but about 20 feet up, a huge block that was wedged in the crack shifted as I tried to climb past.  With Ben in the rock's fall zone, I gently climbed past the loose block, and set up a belay in a small nook when the rope drag got ridiculous.  Ben followed cleaning the loose block.  The steep pumpy nature of this pitch probably warrants 5.10-.

Taylor in the middle of a lichen sea on P4.
Pitch 5 follows an easy ramp/crack to the base of a short 5.9 off-width and then continues to the ridge.  Once again, a belay was set up when rope drag became an issue.

Ben on P5.  Lots of lichen...
Ben past the OW section of P5
 The last two pitches follow the ridge, staying on the right side when large features block progress.  The view is amazing!

Looking back along the first pitch of the ridge traverse.
 An easy rappel gets you to the base of Crack of Noon where you can reach the glacier.  We decided to call it Lentils or TVP, eh? for reason I won't get into.  We both agreed that pitches 1 and 2 were excellent and the route as a whole was fun and would only get better with some traffic- especially pitches 4 and 5.

A view of the ridge from the glacier.
With rain in the forecast, and our rope on the verge of a coreshot, we decided it was time to leave.  So the next day, we gave away as much food as we could, packed up our stuff and started the grueling five hour hike out.

Packing up.
One more picture of the BC

Our lives got progressively better as we got closer to the car.  The crampons came off, the shorts went on, water was easier to get, and  solid ground allowed our progress to speed up.  I was ecstatic when we reached the car.  Flip flops and sitting in a car have never felt so good!


5 hours downhill + 80lb pack = not psyched!
 Here are a coupe of Topo pictures of Lentils or TVP, eh?

From ECB Campground.
At the base of the route.
More info on this route can be found at http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lentils-or-tvp-eh/107748316.

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