Wednesday, June 3, 2009

I'm Back!

Danny Robertson on Achilles

To anyone still looking at this blog...

I haven't been feeling very creative, or motivated lately. However, I am going to start making an effort to update my blog, with a little something every week.

A couple of weeks ago, I went to Sinks Canyon. I love that place. Lander is nice, the camping is free, the canyon is beautiful, and the climbing is damn fun. Lots of steep, technical routes with amazing pockets(some more natural than others) and edges right where you need them. I will definitely be going back there this Summer. I will try to post some pictures later.

Last weekend, I went to Rifle. Love that place too. This year will be my 9th season! My relationship with the canyon has changed a lot since I first moved to Boulder in 2002. Blinding obsession has been replaced with a mature, warm, calm passion for the canyon. Thankfully, new routes are going up all the time. Last weekend, I did a new route that Danny Robertson put up last Summer called Achilles. Originally rated 14a, this route follows the lip of a huge overhang on the opposite side of the canyon from the Arsenal. The route follows a stunning line, and features lots of steep climbing, a bit of traversing, and a very cool arete finish. After fumbling on it for a few days, I gleaned some very useful beta from Steve Hong, that allowed me to put it all together. Steve Hong also redpointed the route just before me. Nice work!!!

Danny Robertson on Achilles

After thinking about it and reading the latest TNB article my honest opinion is that this route is a soft 13d. Not nearly as soft as The Bride of Frankenstein, but definitely easier than Living In Fear, or Simply Read. Either way, it's a super fun route, and a great addition to Rifle. Thanks for all your hard work Danny!

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