Friday, August 29, 2008

Tatonka

Throughout the trip, I struggled to get and stay psyched, so Lee and I went online and looked for Squamish bouldering videos. Tatonka, was one of the first videos we found, and after watching it, my excitement was renewed- for a while. The problem is all about trusting your feet on horrible smears, wrestling with an awkward pinch/undercling and then making a strange cross over move to a large flake. From here the problem eases off but it's not over until you rock over the arete.

Below is video of me on Tatonka.

video
Tatonka V8

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Wafer Thin

Here is a video of Lee doing Wafer Thin V5, in the rain. For those of you who haven't seen this problem, it's a convex belly that slabs out near the top, with big feet and really small crimps. To finish you have to paw over the top using small patches of clean rock that are surrounded by thick mats of moss. Not an ideal problem to try in the rain. Anyways, undaunted and determined, she put this thing together in a couple of tries and scrapped her way to the top. Check out her left hand popping when she hit the finishing hold. Way to go Lee!!! You are my hero.

video
Wafer Thin V5

This Monkey's Gone To Heaven

This Monkey's Gone To Heaven V7, is one of the proudest lines I did on the trip. It is unique because it doesn't feature a lip traverse, slopers, heel hooks, or a heinous top out. However, it does have one huge campus move to a semi decent edge, and then an airy finish over a funky landing.

Although you can't tell by watching the video, I barely did the campus move, and I somehow held on to finish it just before it rained for two days. What an amazing line!!!

video
This Monkey's Gone To Heaven V7

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

The Weasel

The Weasel V8, is the pride and joy of my Squamish trip. This thing is HARD! It features shitty slopers, non-holds, fussy heel hooks, improbable arete holds, and a really frustrating finishing move. So classic!!!

I remember looking at this boulder problem 8 years ago and not even being able to comprehend how to do it. Now, thanks to the internet, I was able to figure it out. It's always cool to see some improvement- even if I owe it to technology.

I barely sent it- pay attention to my right hand slipping on the arete.

video
The Weasel V8.

Ahhh, Squamish.

Ahhhh, Squamish. The land of impeccable granite, lush forests, amazing ocean views, and crackling, high voltage, cancerous powerlines. As far as bouldering, Squamish is the land of the lip traverse, the heinous topout, the heel hook, and the sloper. I hate crimps, but by the end to the trip I was fiending for some grips. I had a great time but a week was all my hamstrings, and psyche for lip traverses could handle.

The Cheif.

So before we got to Squamish, Lee hadn't climbed in 2 months, and I have to admit that once again, she impressed me with her natural strength...


and raw bouldering abilities.

video
Lee on Titanic V3.(sorry I can't flip it)

Actually, Lee climbed extremely well- finishing a handful of V3's, a couple of V4's and 2 V5's, which is better than I would have climbed if I hadn't touched rock or hung from my fingers for over 60 days. She definitely deserves the MVP award for this trip!

I on the other hand, have been bouldering all Summer. So I showed up with lofty goals, but got totally stomped. Instead of sending super hard, I projected what was super hard for me(read anything between V5 and V8). Here's a picture of me maxing out on the Hoop Wrangler V5. I never finished this one... can you say humbling?

A huge thanks to my parents for letting us borrow their car for the week. I also want to thank Ryan, Sam and Shannon for letting us borrow their pads for the week. Our trip wouldn't have been possible without their generosity.

The Quiz.

So much for weekly posts. How about monthly updates? Let's start with a game. Based on this picture, what region of the US did I travel to last week?

Slugs are so cool!

Give up? The answer is the Northwest! Lee and I went to Seattle for a wedding, and decided to go bouldering in Squamish for a week. Since I'm originally from Seattle there was also lots of visiting family and other typical vacation activities like over-eating, sleeping in, and looking like a tourist despite the fact that I'm from the NW. Of course there was also lots of rain, gloomy weather, wildlife and climbing. So my next couple of posts will involve our trip to Canada. I hope you enjoy!

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