Friday, July 11, 2008

New Problems at Mt. Evans Area B

A couple of weeks ago, a group of us went to Area B at Mt. Evans. Originally, we planned on trying Gorillas In the Mist V11, but we ended up establishing a couple very nice problems. The first problem, Mahabone, is located about 70 yards to the left of GITM moving slightly uphill. This double arete slab problem features tricky footwork, nice edges and some slappy compression moves on very cool arete slopers. After Rob Guinn sent it, a couple of key holds snapped off making it a bit harder. The final product, which starts on a low left hand sidepull, and the right hand grabbing the low arete is probably V6, and highly recommended. Here are some pictures.

Me slapping the left arete on Mahabone

Matt Battaglia spotting me on Mahabone

We also wandered into the talus field above GITM, and discovered a little roof with some semi-chalked up slopers. It looked like somebody had been there before, but the amount of cleaning that the problem required indicated that nothing had been established. The sit start is left hand on a sharp quartz crystal, and the right hand in a small seam, which sets you up to make a very cool move to a large hold with your left hand. From here, the problem moves left up the arete, using large slopers and blind heel hooks. Since I just bought a condo, I called it The Dead Pledge V7, in honor of my new mortgage. Yay debt!!! This problem can be found by heading straight up and slightly left from GITM into the talus for about 100 yards. The cave faces downhill. There is potential for some very hard variations to this problem that climb in from the right on the previously mentioned slopers. Here are a couple of pictures.

Me on Dead Pledge

Me on the finishing moves of Dead Pledge

Both of these problems get 3 out of 4 stars for quality. Hopefully others will enjoy these problems as much as we did. And for anybody interested, there is a lot of potential for new stuff. So get after it!!!

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