Thursday, May 10, 2012

The Black Canyon

The view of the South Chasm Wall from the Guppy Gully.
On Saturday, Ben Collett and I headed to the Black Canyon with plans to establish a new route in the Guppy Gully.  After a brief scramble and a short rappel, we found ourselves alone, in a wild notch, with 800 foot walls jutting from the earth on both sides of us. 

Since the West side of the gully was already in the sun, we started looking at the shady wall on the other side.  We both saw the line at the same time- an obvious corner system all the way up the wall to a huge roof with a hanging corner on the right end.  We had no idea how hard, or scary it would be, but it looked promising.

Ben at the start of The World According to Guppy.
I nervously roped up and set off into the unknown.  Despite some loose rock, inconvenient bushes, and the stress of not knowing where to go or what awaited, I found myself giddy with excitement.  Instead of being scared, I was excited by the possibility of adventure.  After carefully navigating a small roof and an easy corner, I set up a belay with the remainder of my gear, and brought Ben up.  So far so good!

Ben following pitch 1.
From the belay, Ben headed left, and tackled a short arete section that led to a large corner.  About 25 feet higher, he veered right, moving across a steep slab to the base of a pretty finger crack.  We couldn't believe how well the route was flowing.  Two great pitches in a row!

Start of the 2nd Pitch.
When I arrived at the top of the second pitch I was amazed by what I saw.  A beautiful finger crack in a pretty, clean little corner awaited.  Unsure how hard it was, I cast off.  Our fears were quickly eased by the generous face holds near the crack.  What could have been 5.11, ended up being 5.10-.  The crack led me to the top of a pillar where a short, wide crack blocked my way to easier terrain.  After a couple of failed attempts, I found a solution, and cruised up a 5.6 slab and set up a belay just before the wall steepened.  Another amazing pitch!

Taylor at the start of pitch 3.

When Ben arrived, we decided to head up and left to the base of a huge roof.  The wall kicked back a bit and the rock looked a little more suspect so he proceeded with care.  Ultimately, the pitch ended up being a steep 5.9 with surprisingly solid blocks and flakes that led directly to a nice ledge below the roof.  Pure fun!

Ben leading pitch 4.
Me following pitch 4. You can see pitch 5 just above Ben.
The final pitch looked a bit intimidating.  The rock leading up to the hanging corner was a little dubious, and the crack looked challenging.  After inspecting a couple of ways to access the corner, I decided to climb directly above the belay using a finger crack, and then did a shockingly easy traverse into the corner.  A pleasantly clean 5.10- hand crack with the occasional face hold led me to the top of the wall.  This was by far the best pitch on the route!

Ben topping out pitch 5.
At the top, we both gushed about the quality, and sustained nature of the route.  We couldn't have been happier about our new route.  It had everything from fingers to wide cracks, steep jugs to delicate slab, and with a little bit of traffic, there is no doubt it will just get better.

Picture of pitches 3-5.
In the end we named it The World According to Guppy.  If you want more information, you can find a short route description at

Hope you guys enjoy it as much as we did!

Monday, May 7, 2012

Endo Valley Bouldering

I came back from the Red feeling weak so I decided to do something unusual.  I went bouldering outside!

Leah on an unnamed V4.
I wanted to see something new, so we decided to check out Endo Valley.  This little sector in RMNP was rediscovered by Dave Graham and crew a couple of  years ago and was surrounded by a little bit of controversy and tension.  Luckily, in typical Colorado style, everyone did everything quickly, and then moved on to the next hot spot- leaving the masses another beautiful bouldering area, with a very short approach, and a nice concentration of problems from V0 to V13.

We hooked up with our friends Matt and John who are die hard boulderers.  Being a route climber, I was anxious to leave at 9am.  They, on the other hand, suggested noon.  So, at 12:30 we rolled out of town and did the one hour drive to Endo Valley.

Leah trying the MS 13 Training Arete V8.
My first impression of the area was WOW!  I was immediately struck by the size and quantity of huge, well featured boulders that laid on top of each other creating everything from slabs to absurdly steep caves.  Another thing I really liked about Endo was that most of the boulder problems seem to fall between V8-V11- making it a good place for mere mortals to go.
Matt on the MS 13 Training Arete V8.

Since the area is small, it can get crowded quickly.  However, this means more pads, more beta, more spots(hopefully), and it forces you to make some new friends.

Another view of the MS 13 Training Arete V8.
Unfortunately, it's getting a bit too warm for Endo, but I will definitely be back when it cools off again.  Thanks to everyone that helped establish problems, and fix landings.  This place is awesome!

Leah on The Portal V8.
Taylor on The Portal Sit V10.
Taylor on Chewbaka V11.  Love that name!
Leah getting cozy with her Polar Bear blanket VComfy.
Matt flexing on Chewbaka V11.

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