Friday, July 11, 2008

New Problems at Mt. Evans Area B

A couple of weeks ago, a group of us went to Area B at Mt. Evans. Originally, we planned on trying Gorillas In the Mist V11, but we ended up establishing a couple very nice problems. The first problem, Mahabone, is located about 70 yards to the left of GITM moving slightly uphill. This double arete slab problem features tricky footwork, nice edges and some slappy compression moves on very cool arete slopers. After Rob Guinn sent it, a couple of key holds snapped off making it a bit harder. The final product, which starts on a low left hand sidepull, and the right hand grabbing the low arete is probably V6, and highly recommended. Here are some pictures.

Me slapping the left arete on Mahabone

Matt Battaglia spotting me on Mahabone

We also wandered into the talus field above GITM, and discovered a little roof with some semi-chalked up slopers. It looked like somebody had been there before, but the amount of cleaning that the problem required indicated that nothing had been established. The sit start is left hand on a sharp quartz crystal, and the right hand in a small seam, which sets you up to make a very cool move to a large hold with your left hand. From here, the problem moves left up the arete, using large slopers and blind heel hooks. Since I just bought a condo, I called it The Dead Pledge V7, in honor of my new mortgage. Yay debt!!! This problem can be found by heading straight up and slightly left from GITM into the talus for about 100 yards. The cave faces downhill. There is potential for some very hard variations to this problem that climb in from the right on the previously mentioned slopers. Here are a couple of pictures.

Me on Dead Pledge

Me on the finishing moves of Dead Pledge

Both of these problems get 3 out of 4 stars for quality. Hopefully others will enjoy these problems as much as we did. And for anybody interested, there is a lot of potential for new stuff. So get after it!!!


Danny Robertson said...

Hello Taylor,

Danny from Carbondale here. Funny, I found you on 8a and I too have recently become addicted to blogging (and trying to get points.) Even more strange, I selected the exact template from blogspot (before I viewed your blog.) Un favor, Wendy and I climbed with Matt B in Spain. Both of his email addresses come back as delivery failure. If you see him and remember, have him look on
there are a few pictures of him sending Pince sans rire.
Thanks ----Danny

Peter Beal said...

Taylor, I found your blog by accident searching for info on boulder canyon. Thanks for linking to me. I'll add you to mine

sock hands said...

obviously saw yer blog after the post on mine. i'll bust out a link soon. word. i believe the 'dead pledge' problem was done by seth allred and called 'futurama'

if you search my blog for that name from last season there should be a video of me doing it as well. you can confirm if it's the same or not. no big deal though... great line!

sock hands said...

found it... had to look up "allred"

sock hands said...

ben elkon weighed in and explained that you had started sitting and a bit left.... we had looked at that version, but never did it. word! nice work, son. i'll be sure to check it next time i go. i think schulte may have done the low start to the 'futurama' version in the video. burly as shit.

by any chance, did you guys put any time into the steep roof about 10 yards up canyon from this line? comment yes/no back on my blog, or, email: iclimbbigrocksAThotmailDOTcom

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