Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Blast From the Past- Eldorado Canyon, Spring 2008

Here are some pictures of the Schultz Arete(A.K.A. Quigong) V11. This is a very convenient problem with very sharp crimps, a fairly bad landing and an annoying rock that you have to avoid touching at the start of the problem. Despite all the cons, this thing seriously exploits my crimp weakness, and for that it's definitely on my list as the temps cool down.


Peter Beal said...

Taylor where is this problem?

Taylor Roy said...

Hi Peter,

This little gem is located in Eldorado Canyon, across the road from the Milton Boulder, on the talus covered hillside. Just wander around and you will easily find it. If you go I would recommend at least 2 pads and a spotter.

Peter Beal said...

Thanks for the beta Taylor

Mannphoto said...

Good problem. Bullet stone for sure. This is an old Will Lemaire project. Chris Schulte one day cracked the French melon and asked Will for his list of projects. This one came up, Schulte checked it out, and sent.

A right kneebar at the start is key, but a mere inch from the dab rock. Amazing crimping thereafter.

Taylor Roy said...

Hey Andy, thanks for the historical info. Peter, if you ever want to go out to the problem, let me know. It would be great to get out with you.

Peter Beal said...

The problem looks really good. My schedule is so tight right now that it might be hard to get together but email me if you have a plan in mind.

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