Friday, August 24, 2012

Bugaboos- Divine Intervention and Paddle Flake.

We spent the next two days "recovering" from the hike and climbing near Applebee Campground.  The weather forecast warned of afternoon storms so we decided to keep our days short .

Snowpatch in the background.
Our first objective was a newish route on Bugaboos Spire called Divine Intervention 5.11b.  The route is 10 pitches but the best rock, and hardest pitches are pitches 1-5.  Plus, you can rappel off after the fifth pitch meaning you don't have to climb with boots, crampons, etc. making it a great choice for a mellow day.

Unfortunately, we didn't take very many pictures, but the route is very nice and the rock will only improve with time.  Overall the route is very well protected, and the climbing tackles inspiring features with a great mix of classic crack climbing and interesting face moves.  I blew the onsight by going left instead of right on P5 which lead me up a crack system that dead ended.  Too hard to downclimb, I set a really good nut, and bailed.  SCARY!!!  Oh well...

Looking up at P5.  Go right at the roof!
View of Applebee Campground from Bugaboo Spire.

Ben rappelling P3.
The next day, we decided to climb Paddle Flake 5.10 on Crescent Spire.  It follows a prominent corner system for four pitches to the base of a handsome headwall.

The lower pitches are very polished, requiring stemming, good footwork and faith in small gear at times.  The upper pitches get steeper, testing your endurance.  Definitely a classic route, but a bit short.

The scariest thing about this route is simply getting to the rock.  To get to the start of P1 I had to solo 40 feet of steep snow, kicking steps with my rock shoes and using a nut tool to as a mini ice axe.  I swear I almost fell at the top!

P1 of Paddle Flake 5.9. 
The upper pitches.
Ben at the beginning of P3 5.10a.
Ben inspecting the crux of P3.
Ben at the crux of P3.
Taylor on P4 5.10 hands.  Really nice and steep pitch.
Au cheval the top of P4.  Classic alpine move!
Ben on P5.
The view from the back of Crescent Spire.

Bugaboo Spire.

Ben rappelling.  Applebee Campground in the upper left corner.
At the end of the day I realized that I had some tea from a broken teabag floating around at the bottom of my pack.  Undaunted by the fact that it had been there for over six months, I scooped it out and brewed the most amazing cup of tea ever!

My reward for the day.  
Hey, I packed it in, so don't judge me.  And no, I am not addicted to caffeine.  Although it's debatable whether my headache was caused by dehydration or caffeine withdrawal.

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