Vedauwoo 101

Blogging, like climbing, takes discipline, and inspiration. Two things that I have been seriously lacking lately. This is reflected in the lack of posts, and my unfocused approach to climbing. My 2008 goal was to achieve a 70/30 ratio of bouldering to route climbing, with the ultimate goal of sending V12 and doing a V10 in a day, and then transitioning to sport climbing in the fall for a short season at Rifle.

Although I am still very focused on bouldering, I have been getting a little bored pebble wrestling over the last couple of weekends. It's gotten so bad that I even went to Vedauwoo, and will probably have scars on my hands and back for the rest of my life. Proof that a lack of focus is dangerous! Actually, I had a great time in Vedauwoo. I really enjoyed the scenery, ambiance, and wild feeling of the area. The climbing lore is thick, the history is interesting, and the climbing is amazing in that educational, humbling, exhausting, painfully unforgettable way. And the local characters... Well, the master himself, Bob Scarpelli, graced us with his very anti-Colorado, territorial, pissed off presence. Although he was abrasive, scary, and rude, I still have a lot of respect for his legacy, and dedication to the sport. I also have to respect his conviction for the area and the state, even if they are extremely biased. I even feel a little empathy for him. Compared to the 80's and 90's, I'm sure Vedauwoo feels more crowded than ever. Should he hate everyone from Colorado? Probably not, but whether we like it or not, he is the sentinel of Vedauwoo, futilely trying to stop change, and for that I wish him all the best.

This makes me think about my relationship with climbing. How much of my identity is defined by climbing and my achievements? What would I have if climbing was taken from me? What would I have if climbing was all I had? Would I be happy if my limit was 5.5? Definitely some scary questions, but necessary to retain a sense of reality in such an obsessive, all consuming sport. Hopefully, I will continue to find joy in climbing, and if I ever feel crusty and old I will think of Bob, and remember why I started climbing in the first place- for fun!!!