Thursday, January 5, 2012

Wargasm 5.12b PG13

On Monday, Joe Mills and I checked out a fully bolted, 2 pitch, open project called Wargasm.  It's located above the Mickey Mouse Wall in a very obscure corridor on the East Ridge.  Even with the new guidebook, it took us about two hours to reach the base of this route because we got lost countless times.  In fact, we contemplated bailing a couple of times because the approach was so involved.

Since we were lost, I took a picture of the view from a small, snowy ledge on the East Ridge.

The route goes up the blocky rock to a nice ledge with a midway anchor.  The second pitch follows  the black arete in the upper middle of the picture below.

Although the first pitch has solid rock, it is extremely dirty so we pulled past the bolts to reach the upper pitch.  If cleaned, the first pitch could be around 5.11+.  Here's Joe at the start of the second pitch.

Joe near the top of the second pitch.

Close up of second pitch.

The upper pitch is a very technical climb which is peppered with small edges, and pebbles with the occasional arete move and a thin crux in the middle.  After working the moves, we both sent on our second go and decided it was around 5.12b PG13(because of the placement of the 2nd bolt).  Although it wouldn't increase the difficutly this could be led in one long 180 foot pitch.

With the sun quickly fading, we decided it would be much easier to rappel than go back the way we came.

The view from the East Ridge Corridor alcove.

Joe figuring out our escape plan.

Looking up at the second pitch of Wargasm.

Joe on the ground and me getting ready to rappel.  I hate rappelling!

I am very impressed with the motivation and effort it took to equip this route and would love to know who installed it.

So if you are looking for a very obscure route, or want to better our style and redpoint the whole route, go check out Wargasm!

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