Unlike past trips, where I did way too much research, created extensive tick lists, and obsessively charted out rest days, I am showing up with almost no goals. This makes the trip seem deceptively relaxing. Although the technical nature of the climbing is less demanding, the logistics, and cumulative effects of long approaches, climbing 20 pitches in a day at altitude will probably crush me. The only goal I do have is to show up, have some fun, climb some beautiful stuff, take lots of pictures and try not to hold my partner back.
|Tan Buttresses. Our route goes up the sunny face to the right of the leftmost large shadow.|
|Ben approaching the Tan Buttresses.|
|Old school! HTFU!|
|Ben on Pitch 1.|
Pitch 3 (House of Cards) turned out to be a much cleaner than it appeared. Although we trundled a few blocks, most of the pitch was steep and airy with blocky features and lots of good gear. The top half of the route follows a large, lower angle corner with multiple cracks to the base of a pretty gray headwall. We thought it was around 5.10b.
|Ben starting up Pitch 3. Note the loose looking blocks.|
|Ben on the House of Cards Pitch.|
|Starting Pitch 4. The Gangsta Pitch.|
|Stemming like a Gangsta.|
|Pulling into the chimney. You can see how the crack continues up the steep face above where I broke right. Harder variation?|
As we rolled out of the Summit Lake parking lot the first song we heard was "Damn It Feels good to be a Gangsta". For some reason, it felt appropriate.
A complete route description is posted on Mountain Project at http://mountainproject.com/v/damn-it-feels-good-to-be-a-hamsta/107716834.