Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Unfinished Eldo Projects

This boulder is located below the Lower Peanut Wall in Eldorado Canyon. It features a large roof with one very hard project that moves along a slopey rail in the roof, joins a flake, and then ends with a heinous mantle. The chalk was added by Paul Robinson after I tipped him off about this problem. Despite his efforts this thing remains unclimbed, and looks like it would be at least V13. Here are a couple of pictures of the unfinished line.

If you continue up the talus field you reach the Upper Peanuts Wall, where you will encounter this boulder.

Colorado needs a V16 and this is it! The line starts with your left hand underclinging the roof and your right hand on a decent edge at head height on the face. Traverse left along the edge of the roof using small crimps and underclings until you hit a slippery pod at which point you climb upwards making some impossible moves to gain better holds before topping out at 20 feet. It seems appropriate that Colorado's first V16 is found in Eldo. Here are a couple of more pictures.

Since area requires a strenuous 20 minute hike to reach, this boulder problem has never been cleaned. That said, anyone willing to step out of the box and investigate this problem won't be disappointed.

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