New Problems at Mt. Evans Area B

A couple of weeks ago, a group of us went to Area B at Mt. Evans. Originally, we planned on trying Gorillas In the Mist V11, but we ended up establishing a couple very nice problems. The first problem, Mahabone, is located about 70 yards to the left of GITM moving slightly uphill. This double arete slab problem features tricky footwork, nice edges and some slappy compression moves on very cool arete slopers. After Rob Guinn sent it, a couple of key holds snapped off making it a bit harder. The final product, which starts on a low left hand sidepull, and the right hand grabbing the low arete is probably V6, and highly recommended. Here are some pictures.

Me slapping the left arete on Mahabone

Matt Battaglia spotting me on Mahabone

We also wandered into the talus field above GITM, and discovered a little roof with some semi-chalked up slopers. It looked like somebody had been there before, but the amount of cleaning that the problem required indicated that nothing had been established. The sit start is left hand on a sharp quartz crystal, and the right hand in a small seam, which sets you up to make a very cool move to a large hold with your left hand. From here, the problem moves left up the arete, using large slopers and blind heel hooks. Since I just bought a condo, I called it The Dead Pledge V7, in honor of my new mortgage. Yay debt!!! This problem can be found by heading straight up and slightly left from GITM into the talus for about 100 yards. The cave faces downhill. There is potential for some very hard variations to this problem that climb in from the right on the previously mentioned slopers. Here are a couple of pictures.

Me on Dead Pledge

Me on the finishing moves of Dead Pledge

Both of these problems get 3 out of 4 stars for quality. Hopefully others will enjoy these problems as much as we did. And for anybody interested, there is a lot of potential for new stuff. So get after it!!!

Mt. Evans Hangover

It's Tuesday, and I still feel hungover from this weekend. My body aches, and my head feels fuzzy. I have been a useless zombie at work and at night I sit at home and guzzle water. No, I didn't drink too much! If I had, I would probably be recovered by now. My condition was caused by going to Mt. Evan on Sunday, hiking 3+ hours, climbing until I had nothing left, and sucking on thin air all day. As horrible as I feel, I would do it again in an instant.

We started the day at the Ladder V2, and slowly warmed up on some random problems. Then we moved on to a nice V7 arete behind Maker's Mark V5. After a bit of rest, and a short debate on where to go next, we headed to Gorillas in the Mist V11. This was the first time I had climbed on the problem and was not disappointed. This problem has amazing compression moves, and immaculate stone. It definitely has my vote for the best V11 in Colorado. With an hour of effort, and some beta, I was able to do all the moves. I think putting it all together will be the crux. I will definitely be going back soon!

The wind picked up and lightening cracked, but the rain never fell, so we packed up and hiked to the Hume boulder at Area B. This was the first time I had been to the boulder and was impressed by it's size, and the quality and variety of problems. I was also struck by the untapped potential of Area B. I ended up settling on Curiously Strong/Wrong, and the others tried a very cool V6 the the right. After a couple of tries, I stuck the first move of Curiously Strong, but decided to use the jugs to the left. I was told this is Curiously Wrong. It felt like V8 or so. Then I tried to haul my ass off the ground on the Hume Problem V10, which only resulted in some involuntary farts, and grunting. At this point, everyones skin was gone, and it was time to head home.

It was a great day and I can't wait to go back next weekend and get wasted again.

Vedauwoo 101

Blogging, like climbing, takes discipline, and inspiration. Two things that I have been seriously lacking lately. This is reflected in the lack of posts, and my unfocused approach to climbing. My 2008 goal was to achieve a 70/30 ratio of bouldering to route climbing, with the ultimate goal of sending V12 and doing a V10 in a day, and then transitioning to sport climbing in the fall for a short season at Rifle.

Although I am still very focused on bouldering, I have been getting a little bored pebble wrestling over the last couple of weekends. It's gotten so bad that I even went to Vedauwoo, and will probably have scars on my hands and back for the rest of my life. Proof that a lack of focus is dangerous! Actually, I had a great time in Vedauwoo. I really enjoyed the scenery, ambiance, and wild feeling of the area. The climbing lore is thick, the history is interesting, and the climbing is amazing in that educational, humbling, exhausting, painfully unforgettable way. And the local characters... Well, the master himself, Bob Scarpelli, graced us with his very anti-Colorado, territorial, pissed off presence. Although he was abrasive, scary, and rude, I still have a lot of respect for his legacy, and dedication to the sport. I also have to respect his conviction for the area and the state, even if they are extremely biased. I even feel a little empathy for him. Compared to the 80's and 90's, I'm sure Vedauwoo feels more crowded than ever. Should he hate everyone from Colorado? Probably not, but whether we like it or not, he is the sentinel of Vedauwoo, futilely trying to stop change, and for that I wish him all the best.

This makes me think about my relationship with climbing. How much of my identity is defined by climbing and my achievements? What would I have if climbing was taken from me? What would I have if climbing was all I had? Would I be happy if my limit was 5.5? Definitely some scary questions, but necessary to retain a sense of reality in such an obsessive, all consuming sport. Hopefully, I will continue to find joy in climbing, and if I ever feel crusty and old I will think of Bob, and remember why I started climbing in the first place- for fun!!!

Reflections of an Old Man

I turned 31 on Wednesday. I am undeniably established in my thirties. Despite living another year, I don't feel any older, or different than I did when I was 21. In fact, I feel stronger than ever, and I intend to continue improving for many years. Unfortunately, the reality is my bald head, growing wrinkles, and general disregard for current fashion betray the fact that I am no longer young. Especially by Boulder standards. That said, I have started to cling to the idea that you are only as old as you feel. Thankfully my gymnastics background has conditioned my muscles and joints to support this notion- for now... I have noticed that my body isn't exactly what it was ten years ago. I have to stretch more often, my metabolism has slowed down, and my fingers feel a bit more fragile from time to time. This doesn't bother me too much- a little prevention and self awareness never hurt. In the last couple of years I have also experienced serious performance slumps. Some of these periods have caused me to consider whether I had reached my peak and was doomed to plateau or get worse. Thankfully, I have always been able to snap out of it by changing my training, or finding some new motivation.

So along with trying to push my physical limits, I will also explore the notion that climbing, like age, is all about your mind set. A denial to give up and grow old. A commitment to improve, learn, adapt, remain curious, and find joy in the new and uncertain. An opportunity to travel, play in the dirt, be humbled, and remain young at heart. I will look to older climbers like Ben Moon, Fred Nicole, J.B. Tribout, and Yuji Hirayama to show me that age doesn't determine what you can accomplish. And when my body finally falls apart, I can proudly say that I never took a moment for granted.

Left Graham Arete

Last Thursday, I finally finished the Left Graham Arete V11. The moment I pulled onto the wall, something felt different. The moves didn't feel easier- it was almost like I had finally convinced myself that it was possible. My foot didn't pop, I hit the holds perfectly, and 15 seconds later I found myself at the top in disbelief. I down climbed, and eventually realized that my success had come at a price. The small crimps had completely split my right pointer finger. Still glowing with victory, I happily accepted the sacrifice the problem demanded, and drove home.

Since my tip was destroyed, I spent the weekend doing non climbing related activities. Two days never felt soooooo long. Thank god for climbing!

Unfinished Eldo Projects

This boulder is located below the Lower Peanut Wall in Eldorado Canyon. It features a large roof with one very hard project that moves along a slopey rail in the roof, joins a flake, and then ends with a heinous mantle. The chalk was added by Paul Robinson after I tipped him off about this problem. Despite his efforts this thing remains unclimbed, and looks like it would be at least V13. Here are a couple of pictures of the unfinished line.

If you continue up the talus field you reach the Upper Peanuts Wall, where you will encounter this boulder.

Colorado needs a V16 and this is it! The line starts with your left hand underclinging the roof and your right hand on a decent edge at head height on the face. Traverse left along the edge of the roof using small crimps and underclings until you hit a slippery pod at which point you climb upwards making some impossible moves to gain better holds before topping out at 20 feet. It seems appropriate that Colorado's first V16 is found in Eldo. Here are a couple of more pictures.

Since area requires a strenuous 20 minute hike to reach, this boulder problem has never been cleaned. That said, anyone willing to step out of the box and investigate this problem won't be disappointed.

Lee's Rehab

About a month ago, Lee hurt something in her left palm trying Smokin' Joe at Joe's Valley. Ever since, we have been trying different things to rehab her hand. At first, our tactics involved no climbing, but gradually she's started to climb again- avoiding crimpers, and holds that separate her pinkie and left ring finger. Continuing her rehab, we went to the East Draw for a little finger friendly bouldering.

Just outside Eldorado Canyon, this is a great place for cold days because it's South facing, and at the top of a hill. The climbing is found on a long band of pebbly sandstone with a steeper section at the left side of the wall. Lee tried Pig Dog for a while, and between attempts we drank tea.

Although the rock isn't perfect, and none of the problems are amazing, we remained thankful to be outside, and enjoyed the unique view of Eldo.

Eventually, Lee's hand started to hurt, so I dropped her off at home, and I drove up Boulder Canyon to try the Left Graham Arete V11. I have been trying this thing randomly for about three years, but have always shown up without the prerequisite finger strength. For some reason, things felt different this time, and after shredding my tips on it for an hour, I surprised myself by falling off on the mantle! Unfortunately, it was getting dark and my tips were paper thin. So I went home with a glimmer of hope that with a little rest, and some new skin, my stubborness will payoff.